There are two models:
Ducellier 6211 (Top)
- Fitted to 2.7L engines
- Mass: ~10 kilos
Ducellier 6229 (Bottom)
- Fitted to 3.0 engines
- Mass: ~15 kilos
Removing the Starter
You must remove the lower part of the header on the right side of the engine to get at the starter. There just is no good way around this step. On EU cars, if the 5 bolts holding the top and bottom halves of the header together are not too rusty, this is not a terrible job. On USA cars, you will need to get at the 11mm A/F nuts on the exhaust clamp holding the lower half to the upper half. Use plenty of penetrating oil so you don't snap the bolts off. The special "football" head M7 bolts used on these clamps (identical to early DS and some later ID exhaust manifold clamps) are unavailable. If you break one, the best solution is to use an M8 pan head screw and grind a flat in the side of the head. You will have to drill the clamp to 8mm (5/16). If possible get a stainless pan head screw to avoid this problem in the future.
You will need an Allen-head socket driver to remove this, but it can be done by snaking a 3/8" max extension past the starter.
3.0L & EFI
The starter cannot be removed the same way. You'll need an open-ended wrench and will have to loosen it one flat at a time. It is not possible to use a flexible ratchet extension or ratcheting ring spanner because of the close proximity of the flange (see photo).
Don't bother to try to get to them while the starter is in the car. Remove the starter first.
- John Titus has a gear-reduction version that is smaller, lighter, and spins 20% faster than the OE starters.